Anubias aquarium plant growing on hardscape in a planted freshwater tank

Anubias Aquarium Plant Guide: Care, Planting & Placement

Beginner 17 min.

Introduction

The Anubias aquarium plant is one of the most reliable plants for freshwater aquariums. It is hardy, slow-growing, shade-tolerant, beginner-friendly, and extremely versatile in aquascaping. You can attach it to driftwood, stones, roots, caves, and hardscape details, which makes it useful in planted tanks, shrimp aquariums, betta setups, low-tech layouts, and community aquariums.

Anubias is often called “easy,” but many beginners still damage it by planting it incorrectly. The most important rule is simple: do not bury the rhizome. Anubias is a rhizome plant. If the thick horizontal rhizome is covered by substrate, it can rot. Roots may grow into the substrate, but the rhizome itself should stay exposed or attached to hardscape.

This guide explains Anubias plant care in detail: lighting, CO₂, water parameters, attachment methods, substrate use, algae prevention, trimming, propagation, popular varieties, and aquascaping placement. For the broader plant group, read the Epiphyte Aquarium Plants guide. If you are still learning plant categories, start with the Aquarium Plants Guide.

Quick answer: Anubias is an easy, slow-growing rhizome plant that does best in low to moderate light. Attach it to rocks, wood, or decor, keep the rhizome exposed, dose light water-column nutrients if needed, and avoid excessive direct light that can cause algae on its slow leaves.

What You’ll Learn in This Lesson

What Anubias is and why it is so popular in aquariums
Why Anubias should not be buried in substrate
How to attach Anubias to rocks, driftwood, and hardscape
Which Anubias varieties are best for foreground, midground, and nano tanks
How much light Anubias needs
Whether Anubias needs CO₂ or fertilizer
How to prevent algae on slow-growing Anubias leaves
How to troubleshoot rhizome rot, yellow leaves, melting, and weak growth

What Is Anubias?

Anubias is a genus of hardy aquatic and semi-aquatic plants commonly used in freshwater aquariums. In the aquarium hobby, Anubias species and varieties are valued because they tolerate low light, grow slowly, attach well to hardscape, and are usually not eaten by many fish that damage softer plants.

Unlike many rooted aquarium plants, Anubias grows from a rhizome. The rhizome is the thick horizontal stem that produces leaves and roots. This rhizome is the plant’s central growth structure. If it remains healthy, the plant can continue producing new leaves for years.

Anubias is commonly used in:

Low-tech planted aquariums
Beginner freshwater tanks
Shrimp tanks
Betta aquariums
Cichlid tanks with tougher plants
Hardscape-heavy aquascapes
Shaded areas under driftwood or taller plants
Foreground and midground layouts

Because it grows slowly, Anubias is not a fast nutrient sponge. It is best used as a durable structure plant, not as the only plant in a new aquarium where fast plant mass is needed.

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Anubias Care Overview

Anubias is beginner-friendly because it does not require intense light, pressurized CO₂, or nutrient-rich substrate. Its slow growth makes it stable and manageable, but also means old leaves can collect algae if the plant is placed under too much light or in an unstable tank.

Care Factor	Anubias Preference	Beginner Note
Difficulty	Easy	Excellent beginner plant when planted correctly
Placement	Foreground, midground, hardscape, shaded zones	Choose variety size based on tank scale
Light	Low to moderate	Too much direct light can cause algae
CO₂	Not required	Growth may improve slightly, but it remains slow
Substrate	Not required for rhizome attachment	Do not bury the rhizome
Fertilizer	Light water-column nutrients if needed	Root tabs are less important unless roots enter substrate
Growth speed	Slow	Judge health by new leaves, not fast growth
Maintenance	Low	Remove old leaves and control algae

Anubias is easy because it is tolerant, not because it grows quickly. A healthy Anubias may produce new leaves slowly, especially in low-light aquariums. That is normal.

The Most Important Rule: Do Not Bury the Rhizome

The most common Anubias mistake is burying the rhizome in substrate. The rhizome is the thick green horizontal part from which leaves and roots grow. If this part is covered by sand, soil, or gravel, it can rot.

You can place Anubias near the substrate. You can let its roots grow into the substrate. You can even tuck roots gently into gaps. But the rhizome itself should stay above the substrate or attached to hardscape.

Simple planting rule: Roots can go down. Rhizome stays out. If you can see the thick horizontal stem, you are usually safer.

If an Anubias rhizome becomes soft, brown, mushy, or foul-smelling, rot may already have started. Healthy rhizome sections are firm. Rotten sections should be removed with clean scissors if possible, leaving only firm healthy tissue.

How to Attach Anubias to Rocks and Driftwood

The best way to plant Anubias is usually to attach it to rocks, driftwood, or aquarium-safe decor. Over time, the roots can grip the hardscape and hold the plant naturally.

You can attach Anubias using cotton thread, fishing line, plant-safe super glue gel, or careful wedging between hardscape pieces. The goal is to hold the rhizome in place without crushing it.

Attachment Methods

Method	Best For	Beginner Note
Cotton thread	Wood, roots, small stones	Usually breaks down after the plant attaches
Fishing line	Secure attachment on hardscape	Strong but should be removed if it cuts into growth
Super glue gel	Quick attachment to rocks or wood	Use small amounts and avoid covering the whole rhizome
Wedging	Rock cracks or driftwood gaps	Works if the plant is secure but not crushed
Plant holder or pot	Temporary placement	Can work if rhizome remains healthy and water flows around it

When using glue, apply it sparingly to roots or a small rhizome contact point, not across the entire rhizome. The plant still needs healthy exposed tissue and water movement around it.

Can Anubias Be Planted in Substrate?

Anubias can sit near the substrate, but it should not be planted like a normal rooted stem or rosette plant. The roots may be tucked into sand or gravel, but the rhizome must remain exposed above the substrate.

This is why Anubias is often easier on hardscape than in open substrate. A rock or piece of wood gives the plant a stable surface while keeping the rhizome visible and safe.

If you want to use Anubias in a sandy foreground or midground, attach it to a small stone first and place the stone on the sand. This creates a natural planted look without burying the rhizome.

Do not bury the thick rhizome.
Do not cover the crown with soil or sand.
Do not force the plant deep into gravel.
Use a small rock anchor if you want it at substrate level.
Let roots naturally grow downward over time.

For substrate planning in planted aquariums, compare the Aquarium Soil Guide and the Aquarium Sand Guide.

Anubias Lighting Requirements

Anubias is a low to moderate light plant. It does not need intense light to survive, and it often looks best in slightly shaded areas where algae pressure is lower.

Because Anubias grows slowly, strong direct light can become a problem. The plant may not grow fast enough to outpace algae on its older leaves. This is why Anubias often performs well under driftwood shade, beside rocks, below taller plants, or in low-tech aquariums with controlled lighting.

Lighting Situation	Anubias Response	Recommendation
Low light	Slow but usually stable growth	Good for easy low-tech tanks
Moderate light	Healthy growth if algae is controlled	Best general range for most tanks
Strong direct light	Algae risk on slow leaves	Use shade or reduce photoperiod/intensity
Deep shade	Very slow or stalled growth	Move slightly brighter if no new leaves appear
Unstable lighting schedule	Algae and inconsistent plant response	Use a timer

For more lighting strategy, use the Aquarium Plant Light Requirements, Aquarium Lighting Guide, and Low-Tech Aquarium Lighting guides.

Does Anubias Need CO₂?

Anubias does not need pressurized CO₂. It is one of the best aquarium plants for low-tech tanks because it can grow slowly under normal aquarium conditions without a CO₂ system.

CO₂ may improve overall plant growth in a planted aquarium, but Anubias will still remain a slow-growing plant compared with fast stems or carpeting plants. Adding CO₂ just for Anubias is usually unnecessary.

CO₂ becomes more relevant if your aquarium also contains demanding plants, strong lighting, dense carpets, or high-energy stem groups. In that case, Anubias can still be part of the layout, but it should be placed where it will not be blasted with excessive light.

Anubias can grow without CO₂.
CO₂ is optional, not required.
Strong light plus slow Anubias growth can cause algae.
High-tech tanks should still use shaded Anubias placement.
Do not increase light just to make Anubias grow faster.

If your tank includes high-demand plants, read the Aquarium CO₂ System Guide before increasing light intensity.

Does Anubias Need Fertilizer?

Anubias is not a heavy feeder, but it still needs nutrients. Because it is usually attached to hardscape and not rooted deeply in substrate, it mainly uses nutrients from the water column.

In lightly stocked aquariums or very clean planted tanks, Anubias may benefit from a gentle liquid fertilizer. In fish-heavy tanks, some nutrients may already come from fish waste and feeding. The goal is not heavy dosing; the goal is steady access to basic plant nutrients.

Anubias can show nutrient-related problems if the tank is extremely nutrient-poor. Pale new leaves, weak growth, tiny leaves, or yellowing can point toward light or nutrient imbalance. However, old leaves naturally age, so judge the plant mainly by new growth.

Use water-column fertilization if new growth is weak.
Do not rely on root tabs alone for hardscape-attached Anubias.
Keep dosing modest in low-light tanks.
Watch new leaves, not only old leaves.
Remove old damaged leaves if they collect algae.

For plant nutrition basics, read Macronutrients for Aquarium Plants and Micronutrients for Aquarium Plants. For dosing support, use the Fertilizer Dosing Calculator.

Best Anubias Varieties for Aquariums

There are many Anubias varieties in the aquarium hobby. The best one depends on tank size and placement. Large forms can dominate small tanks, while tiny forms can disappear in large layouts unless used in groups.

Beginner Friendly

Anubias barteri var. nana 'Petite' ('Bonsai')

Anubias Variety	Best Use	Beginner Note
Anubias barteri	Medium to large midground or background hardscape	Hardy but can grow large
Anubias nana	Midground, foreground transition, wood and rocks	One of the best general beginner choices
Anubias nana “Petite”	Nano tanks, foreground details, small stones	Very slow but excellent for scale
Anubias coffeefolia	Textured midground accents	Attractive leaf texture, slow growth
Anubias congensis	Larger hardscape layouts	Better for medium to large aquariums
Anubias hastifolia	Bold leaf shapes in larger tanks	Can become too large for nano setups
Anubias “Mini” forms	Nano aquascapes and detailed hardscape	Choose when scale matters

If you are unsure, start with Anubias nana. It is versatile, widely available, hardy, and easier to place than very large or extremely tiny varieties.

Anubias Placement in the Aquarium

Anubias can be used in the foreground, midground, or even background depending on variety size. The key is matching leaf size to tank scale.

Small varieties such as Anubias nana “Petite” work well in nano aquariums, foreground stones, and hardscape details. Medium varieties such as Anubias nana work well in midground layouts. Larger varieties belong in bigger aquariums where their leaves do not overwhelm the design.

Tank Area	Good Anubias Use	Design Tip
Foreground	Small Anubias on stones or low wood	Use miniature varieties to protect scale
Midground	Anubias nana, coffeefolia, compact forms	Place around hardscape bases
Background	Larger Anubias types in big tanks	Use only when tank size supports large leaves
Shaded hardscape	Anubias attached under wood or beside rocks	Excellent algae prevention placement
Shrimp zones	Small Anubias with moss or Buce	Leaves and roots create grazing surfaces

For broader midground design ideas, use the Aquarium Midground Plants Guide.

Anubias in Low-Tech Aquariums

Anubias is one of the best plants for low-tech aquariums because it can grow without CO₂, does not need strong light, and has a slow maintenance rhythm. It is especially useful in tanks where you want a stable plant that will not require weekly trimming.

However, a low-tech Anubias tank should not be completely ignored. Slow plants still need stable lighting, clean water, gentle nutrients, and algae control. A tank filled only with slow-growing Anubias may not absorb nutrients as quickly as a tank with fast-growing stems or floating plants.

Use low to moderate light.
Place Anubias in shaded or semi-shaded areas.
Combine with faster plants if the tank is new or algae-prone.
Use light liquid fertilizer if new growth is weak.
Keep old leaves clean and remove damaged growth.
Avoid long photoperiods just because the plant is hardy.

For lighting balance in simple setups, read Low-Tech Aquarium Lighting and Aquarium Lighting and Algae.

Anubias for Betta, Shrimp, and Community Tanks

Anubias works well with many aquarium animals because it is sturdy, slow-growing, and easy to place. Its broad leaves can provide resting places, shade, and cover. Its roots and hardscape placement create grazing surfaces for shrimp and small fish.

In betta tanks, Anubias leaves can create shaded resting areas near wood or stones. In shrimp tanks, Anubias works well with mosses and Bucephalandra to create complex surfaces. In community tanks, it helps break lines of sight and soften hardscape without needing delicate care.

Tank Type	Why Anubias Works	Placement Tip
Betta aquarium	Broad leaves and shaded cover	Place near resting zones, not directly in strong flow
Shrimp tank	Hardscape roots and leaves create grazing areas	Combine with moss and Bucephalandra
Community tank	Durable, peaceful cover, low maintenance	Use around hardscape and side zones
Cichlid tank	Tougher leaves than many soft plants	Attach securely to rocks or wood
Low-tech planted tank	No CO₂ required and low light tolerance	Use shade and avoid excessive direct light

Anubias is not indestructible, but it is one of the most livestock-friendly plants when placed correctly.

How to Trim Anubias

Anubias does not need frequent trimming. Because it grows slowly, maintenance usually means removing old, damaged, algae-covered, or dying leaves. Use clean scissors and cut the leaf stem near the rhizome without damaging the rhizome itself.

Do not remove too many leaves at once unless the plant is large and healthy. Anubias depends on its leaves for energy, and heavy trimming can slow growth even further.

Remove old yellowing leaves.
Cut algae-covered leaves if they cannot recover.
Remove damaged leaves after transport or planting.
Do not cut into healthy rhizome tissue unless removing rot.
Use clean scissors to avoid crushing stems.
Trim gradually rather than stripping the plant bare.

Healthy Anubias maintenance is minimal. If you are trimming constantly, the plant is probably being used in a way that creates algae or damage.

How to Propagate Anubias

Anubias is propagated by dividing the rhizome. Once the plant has a long enough healthy rhizome with several leaves and roots, it can be cut into sections. Each section should have enough leaves and healthy rhizome tissue to continue growing.

Propagation should be done carefully because Anubias grows slowly. Cutting a weak plant into tiny pieces can slow it down or cause failure. Wait until the plant is well established before dividing it.

Basic Propagation Steps

Choose a healthy plant with a firm rhizome.
Use clean sharp scissors or a blade.
Cut the rhizome into sections with several leaves each.
Remove any soft or rotten parts.
Attach each section to rock, wood, or decor.
Keep the rhizome exposed.
Give the new sections stable low to moderate light.

Because Anubias is slow, propagation is not instant. New sections may take time to settle before producing visible new leaves.

Algae on Anubias Leaves

Algae on Anubias is common because the plant grows slowly and has long-lasting leaves. If old leaves sit under strong direct light, algae can colonize them more easily than fast-growing plant tissue.

The solution is not simply to scrub the plant forever. Better placement and lighting control usually matter more. Anubias often does best in low to moderate light or partial shade, especially in high-energy planted tanks.

Move Anubias out of harsh direct light.
Use a stable lighting schedule.
Avoid excessive photoperiods.
Improve plant mass with faster plants if the tank is new.
Remove old leaves that are heavily covered in algae.
Avoid overfeeding fish.
Perform regular water changes.
Keep water flow gentle but not stagnant around leaves.

If algae keeps returning after lighting changes, read the Aquarium Lighting and Algae guide. Algae on Anubias often reflects system imbalance, not just a plant problem.

Common Anubias Problems

Anubias problems are usually caused by rhizome burial, excessive light, poor water movement, nutrient imbalance, or transition stress. Because the plant grows slowly, recovery can take time.

Problem	Likely Cause	What to Check
Rhizome turns soft or mushy	Rhizome buried or rotting	Expose rhizome and remove rotten sections
Leaves collect algae	Too much light on slow leaves	Move to shade, reduce photoperiod, improve balance
Yellow leaves	Old leaf aging, nutrient issue, or stress	Check new growth, nutrients, and water stability
No new leaves	Very low light, adaptation, or low nutrients	Wait, then adjust light or fertilization gently
Leaves melt after purchase	Transition stress or damaged emersed leaves	Remove decaying leaves and watch for new growth
Black spots or damaged old leaves	Old growth, algae, or stress	Trim old leaves if needed
Plant floats away	Weak attachment	Reattach with thread, line, glue, or wedging

Do not replace Anubias too quickly. A slow plant may need several weeks to adapt. The most important sign is whether the rhizome stays firm and new leaves eventually appear.

Anubias vs Java Fern vs Bucephalandra

Anubias, Java fern, and Bucephalandra are all epiphyte-style aquarium plants commonly attached to hardscape. They share similar planting rules, but they create different visual effects.

Plant	Strength	Best Use
Anubias	Hardy broad leaves and low light tolerance	Beginner hardscape, shaded midground, shrimp and betta tanks
Java Fern	Larger leaf structure and vertical texture	Wood, rocks, background-to-midground structure
Bucephalandra	Small detailed leaves and subtle colors	Nano aquascapes, rock details, refined hardscape

If you want the most beginner-proof hardscape plant, choose Anubias. If you want stronger vertical texture, choose Java fern. If you want fine-scale detail, choose Bucephalandra.

Best Tank Setups for Anubias

Anubias fits many aquarium styles, but it works best when its slow growth and hardscape attachment are used intentionally. It is not a plant for rapid background filling. It is a plant for structure, durability, and long-term stability.

Setup Type	Best Anubias Use	Tip
Beginner planted tank	Attach to wood or rocks in the midground	Combine with faster plants for nutrient uptake
Low-tech aquarium	Use in shaded hardscape zones	Keep light moderate and stable
Nano aquascape	Use petite or mini varieties	Protect scale with small leaves
Betta tank	Broad leaves near resting zones	Avoid harsh flow around the plant
Shrimp tank	Attach to wood with moss or Buce	Creates grazing and shelter surfaces
Cichlid tank	Secure to rocks or wood	Use sturdy placement to prevent uprooting

Anubias is most successful when it is treated as a permanent hardscape plant rather than a fast filler.

Common Mistakes With Anubias

Anubias is easy, but it still has clear rules. Most failures happen because those rules are ignored.

Mistake	Why It Causes Problems	Better Approach
Burying the rhizome	Can cause rhizome rot	Attach to hardscape or keep rhizome exposed
Using strong direct light	Slow leaves collect algae	Use shade or moderate lighting
Expecting fast growth	Anubias is naturally slow	Judge by healthy new leaves over time
Using only Anubias in new tanks	Low plant mass may not compete strongly with algae	Combine with faster plants if needed
Gluing the whole rhizome	Can damage tissue and restrict healthy growth	Use small glue points on roots or contact areas
Choosing oversized varieties for nano tanks	Leaves break the scale	Use petite or compact varieties
Ignoring rotten tissue	Rot can spread along the rhizome	Remove soft sections and keep only firm rhizome

If you avoid these mistakes, Anubias is one of the most dependable aquarium plants you can keep.

Final Anubias Care Checklist

Use this checklist when adding Anubias to your aquarium:

Choose a variety that fits your tank size.
Keep the rhizome exposed.
Attach the plant to wood, rocks, or decor.
Use low to moderate light.
Avoid harsh direct light if algae appears.
Do not expect fast growth.
Use light liquid fertilizer if new growth is weak.
Remove old or algae-covered leaves gradually.
Check that the rhizome stays firm.
Combine with faster plants if the aquarium needs nutrient uptake.

This simple care routine is enough for most Anubias setups. Stability matters more than constant adjustment.

Conclusion

Anubias is one of the best aquarium plants for beginners and experienced aquascapers alike. It is hardy, low-light tolerant, slow-growing, and perfect for attaching to rocks, driftwood, and hardscape. Its broad leaves and strong rhizome make it useful in low-tech aquariums, shrimp tanks, betta setups, community tanks, and shaded aquascapes.

The main rule is to keep the rhizome exposed. Do not bury it in substrate. Attach Anubias to hardscape, give it low to moderate light, avoid excessive direct light, and support it with gentle water-column nutrients if needed.

Anubias will not grow fast, but that is part of its value. It creates stable structure with very little maintenance. If you want a durable, elegant, low-tech plant that can stay in the aquarium for years, Anubias is one of the safest choices.

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Where are you using Anubias in your aquarium — attached to driftwood, placed on rocks, used in a betta tank, or added as a low-tech midground plant?

Tag us on Instagram @AquariumLesson — we’d love to see your Anubias placement, hardscape layout, and planted tank progress.

FAQ

Is Anubias a good aquarium plant for beginners?

Yes. Anubias is one of the best beginner aquarium plants because it is hardy, slow-growing, tolerant of low light, and does not require CO₂. The main rule is to avoid burying the rhizome.

Can Anubias grow without CO₂?

Yes. Anubias can grow without pressurized CO₂ and is ideal for low-tech aquariums. CO₂ may improve overall planted tank growth, but it is not necessary for Anubias care.

Can Anubias be planted in sand or gravel?

Anubias can be placed near sand or gravel, but the rhizome must remain exposed. Roots may grow into the substrate, but burying the thick rhizome can cause rot.

How much light does Anubias need?

Anubias does best in low to moderate light. It can tolerate shade, but very deep shade may slow growth too much. Strong direct light can cause algae on its slow-growing leaves.

Why is algae growing on my Anubias?

Algae often grows on Anubias because the plant is slow-growing and its leaves last a long time. Too much direct light, long photoperiods, overfeeding, or poor system balance can make algae worse.

Why is my Anubias rhizome rotting?

Anubias rhizome rot is commonly caused by burying the rhizome in substrate or placing it where water flow is poor. Remove soft rotten sections, keep the remaining rhizome exposed, and attach the plant to hardscape.

What is the best Anubias variety for small aquariums?

Anubias nana “Petite” and other compact Anubias forms are best for small aquariums and nano aquascapes. Larger varieties can overwhelm small tanks and should be used in medium or large aquariums.

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